So, after reflection and a thorough analysis of possible options, a decision was made to remove the problem of autonomous supply of hot water to the apartment. through installation of a storage electric boiler. The store selected and purchased the desired model, the most suitable and by his volume, and by level of automation and by layout, and by external design.
Scheme of connecting the boiler to the water supply
Now remains solve the problem of how to connect the boiler to the water supply and power supply. You can, of course, use the services of masters, announcements of which can be found in abundance in any local newspaper. Why not try it yourself? If there is certain skills in locksmith work, then this seems to be quite a feasible task.
The issues of connection to the power supply network require separate consideration. In this article, the emphasis will be on the correct and safe connection of the boiler "on the water".
Content
Standard wiring diagram
A person who has a general idea of the layout of the water supply network on an apartment scale and the concept of operation of a storage electric water heater will not be difficult to figure out with the order of its connection to the pipes of cold and hot water supply.
Boiler connection diagram in the apartment
- So, cold water must be supplied to the boiler. This is done by inserting (mounting) a tee in the most convenient place under specific conditions.
- On the pitcher pipeline a safety group must be installed - one or more special valves. About them importance and installation rules will be discussed below in a separate section of the article.
- The outlet pipe of the heated water cuts into the network of the local apartment hot water supply - directly to the passing pipe - through the installed tee, either that Preferably a collector. If the apartment is connected to a centralized hot water network, necessarily put a crane that will cut off, as necessary, the internal network from the common riser.
Scheme for the general connection of the apartment to hot water supply
- This generally accepted scheme can be supplemented with some elements. So, many masters prefer to install tees with taps in front of the entrances to the boiler on both hot and cold pipes, which make it easy to empty the electric heater tank for maintenance or repair work. This somewhat "weights" the installation process, but gives in future certain facilities.
- If pressure surges often occur in the cold water supply network, or the water pressure goes beyond the values \u200b\u200ballowable for a particular boiler, a water reducer will be required. It will equalize the pressure and protect the electric heater from hydraulic shocks.
thermostatic valve
- More one addition could be a thermostatic mixer valve. It will provide an even, pre-set temperature in the hot water supply system, eliminate the possibility of possible burns and etc.. However, it will require a tie-in to install. more one tee in the cold water pipeline - in the thermostatic valve itself, hot and cold flows are mixed to the required temperature.
Scheme using a thermostatic valve
How to "crash" into a cold water pipe?
One of the main tasks is to insert a tee into a cold pipe. There are various solutions to this issue - it all depends and from pipe material, and from places her location.
Metal pipe
Most labour intensive, perhaps a case that will require special skills and tool. We will not consider the issue of welding work - this approach is practically not used in an apartment.
- Option one - when it is possible to cut the pipe and cut at both ends of the desired ½ inch thread. In this case, it will be possible to install the tee through a regular plumbing fixture, or pack it using special couplings with union nuts - "American".
- The second option is when the location of the pipe excludes the possibility of using a threading tool (dies with a holder). In this case have to use a special repair and assembly clip with a tap, which is often called a “vampire” among plumbers. This is a cast iron or brass collapsible structure with a rubber gasket inside and a tee perpendicular outlet and transition to an internal or external thread.
It looks like a repair and installation clip "Vampire"
And this is the setup diagram.
The pipe is carefully cleaned of old paint and rust. Then, in the right place on the pipe with pre-shut off water, a radial hole is drilled with a diameter corresponding to the hole on the coupling. Too large a hole will negatively affect the strength characteristics of the pipe. Too little is too fast will overgrow dirt. Marking the center of the hole necessarily take into account the further direction of laying the line to the boiler.
The coupling is put on through a rubber gasket and is tightly pulled together with standard bolts. Now from her threaded part, you can continue laying any type of pipe.
Metal-plastic pipe
Tee for metal-plastic
The easiest, perhaps, option that will require only wrenches and a cutter. In the right place, the pipe is cut with taking into account tee length. Then the tee itself is installed on the standard compression fittings, with access to an external or internal thread, or with the same fitting way out, if it is planned to continue to lead the metal-layer.
Polypropylene pipe
This will require a special approach. To weld a tee with a special soldering iron, you need definite «expansion» pipe sections for simultaneous coaxial heating. You can, of course, follow the path of installing a "vampire", but it's still not worth the risk. It is better to cut a section of the pipeline, and then solder removable design with a tee and transitions to couplings—"Americans". Let it be a little more expensive, but reliability tie-in will be guaranteed.
They do the same when inserting a pipe with hot water, if planned her connection to the internal apartment network of hot water supply.
How to connect the pipeline to the boiler
So, the tees are cut into the main water pipes of hot and cold water supply, taps are installed on them, and it remains to bring the pipes to the boiler and connect them. Which option to choose?
- First of all, the entire “attachment” is connected to the boiler. Each model has two 1/2" external threads. They are marked with the appropriate colors to eliminate errors during installation.
To start — good advice: do not pack all the wiring directly to the electric heater. From time to time there are situations when it is necessary to remove the boiler for maintenance or repair work, and when "tough» connection may occur certain dismantling problems.
Clutch American
The optimal solution to the issue is the installation of a coupling on the nozzles of the boiler—"American", from which all other elements will go further. Connection is obtained reliable, and disconnecting the boiler from the pipelines will become light task for 2—3 minutes.
The second possibility is flexible hoses in metal braid. At first glance, this is an excellent solution that immediately removes a lot of problems. However, not all so simple.
- Firstly, the products must be of high quality - the market is simply teeming with low-quality fakes.
- Secondly, the hoses must be installed freely, without the formation of unnecessary bends and loops. Any excess tension in the hose leads with unnecessary vibration during pressure drops, to a quick failure.
- And thirdly, some manufacturers of boilers, for their own reasons, directly stipulate in the technical documentation a ban on the use of such flexible connections. Breaking this rule entail, in the event of a complaint, the company's refusal of warranty obligations.
In any case, according to the rules of electrical safety, it is strictly forbidden to connect the boiler directly or through metallized hoses to a metal water supply. A phase breakdown on the device case, if the protection system fails, can lead to the spread of life-threatening voltage through the water supply system, fire hazard situations.
- A simple connection of the pipe to the pipe can go through the hot water outlet, although it makes sense to install it here cut-off tap - there will always be an opportunity disable line for temporary preservation of the heater or dismantling.
- We adhere to the "cold" entrance next sequence (in the direction from the "blue" pipe of the boiler):
- Coupling—"American" (most optimal with direct piping).
- A tee with a drain cock (if desired).
- Combination relief valve (necessarily, and is non-negotiable).
- Shut-off valve - gives the ability to turn off the water supply in the immediate vicinity of the electric heater (an optional element, but quite reasonable).
- Pressure reducer - if necessary. more often sunhis his still put on the general entrance water supply network in the apartment (house).
4. What pipes to use?
- It is impossible to give general advice, although aesthetically, and their considerations reliability nevertheless, the choice of polypropylene pipes will be optimal. They look much neater, and there is a possibility if desired, after testing, brick them into the walls.
- The installation of "metal-plastic" may seem simpler, but both externally and in terms of durability it is significantly inferior to polypropylene.
Outwardly, you can’t even say that the pipes are made of metal-plastic
- We have already mentioned metal pipes - connecting them to the boiler is strictly prohibited.
The safety valve is the most important element
Boilers can explode! Yes, this is not a joke! To prevent an explosion and relieve excess pressure, be sure to install a safety valve!
Safety valve with water drain lever
Special attention should be paid to this element of the system. Despite numerous warnings about the need for such a valve, occasionally there are reports of accidents with electric heaters, the direct cause of which was the disregard for safety requirements.
This small and fairly simple device has two functions - a check valve that prevents the outflow of water from containers boiler, and a liquid overpressure valve in the heater tank. Both of them are ordinary poppet valves, but with different directions of action and designed for different pressure values.
The valve is mounted in strict accordance with the direction of water movement indicated on its body. To understand the importance of this element, let's simulate situations that will inevitably arise in its absence.
- The inflow of water into the heater tank is provided by a constant pressure in the water supply system.However, no one is guaranteed against pressure drops or even its complete disappearance during the period of work on highways (and in other areas a significant decrease in pressure at night is also practiced). In the absence of a check valve, due to an increase in the pressure of heated water in containers boiler, inevitably will go her outflow back, and hot water can suddenly come out of the cold water taps, end up in toilet bowl cistern, or even flow through the cold main to the neighbors. But this more not the worst. Boiler remains "dry", and this can lead to an exit heating element out of service.
- Until now, there are "craftsmen" who, understanding the significance of the check valve, are limited to its installation, ignoring the need for a "stall". By doing so, they install, without exaggeration, "explosives" in his housing. Judge for yourself:
Came out building thermostat (alas, but this happens). Work heating element in the boiler does not stop, the temperature growing reaching 100 degrees and exceeding this value. According to the laws of thermodynamics, the pressure in a closed space also increases, and boiling water may not occur, as the boiling point becomes significantly greater than the 100-degree mark. Under such circumstances, any opening of a valve or a crack in the body results in a sudden drop in pressure. And How consequence, instantaneous boiling of a large volume water with the release of a huge amount of steam. The explosion is so strong that it blows the interior partitions.
All this can and should be avoided by simply installing a safety valve.As soon as the pressure in the tank slightly exceeds the allowable limits, it will simply dump excess fluid, preventing an emergency.
Many users sometimes complain that water drips or even leaks from the valve nozzle. They should be reassured - more concern should be caused by a valve that always remained dry, even at high values of the set heating temperature. - There is a suspicion that it is faulty.
And with the appearance of liquid on the valve nozzle, it is easy to deal with - just put a hose on it (better - transparent, for visual control), which either discharged into the drain bachek toilet, or crashes into a sewer riser. True, if leakage from the valve is permanent and abundant, it is worth checking that its passport readings correspond to the characteristics of the boiler. In addition, perhaps on German "hooked" spring. In both cases, the issue is easily solved by installing the desired new valve, especially since it is inexpensive.
Video: We install the boiler and connect it to the water supply with our own hands
Compliance with all safety requirements when installing a boiler is the most important condition for its proper trouble-free operation. Otherwise, this process is quite a feasible task for any good landlord.
